2006 Toyota Scion, Electrical Problems Options

[SWTomlinson1963]

I'm with the US Army. Just came back from an Overseas Deployment.

Upon returning my 2006 Scion would not start (VIN: JTKDE177360063705, 2.4L, Man-Trans). Supposed the Battery was dead, or discharged.

It was nightfall. 'Mechanically Inclined' friend helped me to slave it off with his Ford Explorer.

Friend did not use headlights of Explorer to ensure that Jumper Cables were correctly hooked up. In fact, they were reversed.

Explorer was running. When ‘friend’ hooked up to the Scion, Positive Terminal and Cable smoked and turned red hot. Was still very hot by the time I got to the front of Vehicle.

Now vehicle will not start at all. Dash lights come on. Headlamps come one. Everything seems to work fine with the exception of the Vehicle will not start. You can’t even hear the starter ‘click’.

Though I did work on old Hot Rods when I was young, I do not consider myself very mechanically inclined. However, I did a little checking on it the next day after I had cooled down some. ‘Friend’ loaned me a cheap Multi-Meter and Test Light. This is what I have found:

1) All Fuses (large, mini, and spade) in Engine Compartment Power Center are good.

2) Starter Relay has no Power to any of its 4 Terminals.

3) There is Continuity and Voltage between Battery and Starter.

4) There is no Continuity OR Voltage between Alternator Batt. Terminal and Positive side of Battery.

5) There is no Continuity between Alternator Batt. Terminal and Starter.

However, the Strangest Thing is this: On a whim I set the Multi-Meter to DC Volts and connected the Positive lead to the Positive side of Battery and the Negative lead to the Alternator Batt. Terminal . . . AND it had over 12.00 Volts.

This seems especially odd to me.

I do not have the extra money for a Tow Fee or extra Shop Labor, and I have to get this thing to a Shop so that I can have the Clutch and Pressure Plate replaced. Now it seems that I have incurred additional financial woes.

Can anyone help?


SWT

[avisitor]

Upon returning my 2006 Scion would not start (2.4L, Man-Trans). Supposed the Battery was dead, or discharged.
Friend did not use headlights of Explorer to ensure that Jumper Cables were correctly hooked up. In fact, they were reversed.
Now vehicle will not start at all. Dash lights come on. Headlamps come one. Everything seems to work fine with the exception of the Vehicle will not start. You can’t even hear the starter ‘click’.
Though I did work on old Hot Rods when I was young, I do not consider myself very mechanically inclined. However, I did a little checking on it the next day after I had cooled down some. ‘Friend’ loaned me a cheap Multi-Meter and Test Light. This is what I have found:

Can anyone help?

Reverse voltage .. it is possible that it can blow out your brain box or computer unit.

Now for the check of the electrical. You don't mention whether the keys are turned to ignition or not.
Then, you should also note that a car is normally a DC voltage system.
The alternator or generator should pump out AC and rectify it into DC.
Never check continuity with power on.

Doing any work on the car will require at least two people.
One to turn the ignition on and crank the engine and turn it off when necessary
The other to test the voltage points.
You will also need to have a little understanding of how the systems work
Otherwise you won't know what the readings mean.

Good luck to you.

This post has been edited by avisitor: Jul 31 2011, 08:59 PM

[avisitor]

exception of the Vehicle will not start. You can’t even hear the starter ‘click’.

Though I did work on old Hot Rods when I was young, I do not consider myself very mechanically inclined. However, I did a little checking on it the next day after I had cooled down some. ‘Friend’ loaned me a cheap Multi-Meter and Test Light. This is what I have found:
1) All Fuses (large, mini, and spade) in Engine Compartment Power Center are good.
2) Starter Relay has no Power to any of its 4 Terminals.

3) There is Continuity and Voltage between Battery and Starter.
4) There is no Continuity OR Voltage between Alternator Batt. Terminal and Positive side of Battery.
5) There is no Continuity between Alternator Batt. Terminal and Starter.

However, the Strangest Thing is this: On a whim I set the Multi-Meter to DC Volts and connected the Positive lead to the Positive side of Battery and the Negative lead to the Alternator Batt. Terminal . . . AND it had over 12.00 Volts.
This seems especially odd to me.
I do not have the extra money for a Tow Fee or extra Shop Labor, and I have to get this thing to a Shop so that I can have the Clutch and Pressure Plate replaced. Now it seems that I have incurred additional financial woes.
Can anyone help?

SWT

There should be two points with possible voltage.
One is coming from the ignition key being turned on (then goes to ground)
The second should be coming from the battery to the relay (then goes to the starter)
If there is no voltage then the cable from the battery to the starter relay may have a fuse built in
if so then you will have to replace the cable.

Good luck

Note if there is continuity between Battery and the starter then there shouldn't be any voltage
If there is voltage then there shouldn't be any continuity.
Reason is that continuity means that the two points are joined by a wire thus making the point to be electrically the same point
so no voltage difference.

This post has been edited by avisitor: Jun 1 2012, 08:23 PM

[drakelewis]

Your having a serious problem my friend, I think. But as what I know,Scion is an excellent brand known for its youthful cars that have a ton of different options available with them. Anyone in Atlanta should be happy to have a new Scion car. There are a ton of different car dealerships in Atlanta. All of them are great dealerships that have experts to help you and a wide selection of automobiles. They will make sure you walk away happy with whatever you get. Locate a dealership in Atlanta at: Scion Atlanta. I hope you can get through with this problem soon dude. Best of luck.

[avisitor]

1) All Fuses (large, mini, and spade) in Engine Compartment Power Center are good.

2) Starter Relay has no Power to any of its 4 Terminals.

3) There is Continuity and Voltage between Battery and Starter.

4) There is no Continuity OR Voltage between Alternator Batt. Terminal and Positive side of Battery.

5) There is no Continuity between Alternator Batt. Terminal and Starter.

However, the Strangest Thing is this: On a whim I set the Multi-Meter to DC Volts and connected the Positive lead to the Positive side of Battery and the Negative lead to the Alternator Batt. Terminal . . . AND it had over 12.00 Volts.

This seems especially odd to me.

It would be nice to have an update on problems presented here
That way we could all learn how the vehicle was fixed