Full Version: Ask me pc related questions
anything you want.
How would I go about setting up 5 monitors with one laptop?
QUOTE (nagasawa @ Dec 4 2010, 01:48 AM) 
How would I go about setting up 5 monitors with one laptop?
quick answer: you can't!
long answer:
most laptop (assuming you're using a high-end laptop with dedicated graphic card from nvidia), the best possible scenerio you can output is 3 monitors. that is, if your laptop has dvi, vga, and svideo port.
the bad news, it's not even recommended considering the high-end graphic card gtx 9800+ support only dual channel, although you can twist a few cable adapter (like hdmi to dvi) to add a 3rd monitor, but that is a long sketch. most laptop don't have hdmi port.
but first of, i need to know what's kind of laptop, especially graphic card you have to give a definite answer.
go to start, run, type in dxdiag. go to the video tab, and write down what graphic card you have.
in my estimation, your probably using intel processor, in which case, either you have intel integrate graphic, then forget about having multiple output monitors. but if you're using intel processor with its own nvidia graphic, then perhaps you can output to 2 monitors. one via your vga cable (should be the blue notch with 15 pins) and the other is the dvi cable (the white one with 24 pins). though, if your is amd processor, then 99.9% chance is you're using ati graphic card which is a poor choice for external monitor because ati isn''t good at dual/triple channel output display like nvidia. ati is good for gaming mostly.
however, laptop has limitation. so your best bet to output to 5 monitors.. you have to use a desktop with a matrox graphic card, which you can output up to 15 monitors! with multiple delicate cards install in pci express x16 slot (heh, also depend on motherboad you have as well) =p. be advice though, these matrox graphic card is not for gaming. thus lacking real hd capacity.
thanks for asking!
Do you advise using a SSD as the main harddrive in a desktop system, or is it still too early ? 
QUOTE (matigasngulo @ Dec 8 2010, 07:53 PM)
Do you advise using a SSD as the main harddrive in a desktop system, or is it still too early ?
nope, it's too early unless you have money to spare, then go for it. SSD is very stable and fast as data is encrypt in memory rather than hard disk drive using spinning.
however, i would recommend getting the 60gb. you only need 30gb to store OS, even in 64 bit versions. 30gbs for application. and another hard drive (preferably the sata one if your motherboard support it) for data store.. if not, get a sata adapter. IDE transmission is slow. and you can set sata hard drive as IDE in bio setting.
however, what i would do? i get a 60gb SSD for OS + application, then 2 sata hard drive in array, and another one as backup.
Thanks ! In fact i was going for the 60 gb, don't have that much spare cash lol
and do have any idea how long the practical life time would be, before some artefacts start showing up ?
and do have any idea how long the practical life time would be, before some artefacts start showing up ?
QUOTE (matigasngulo @ Dec 9 2010, 07:25 PM)
Thanks ! In fact i was going for the 60 gb, don't have that much spare cash lol
and do have any idea how long the practical life time would be, before some artefacts start showing up ?
and do have any idea how long the practical life time would be, before some artefacts start showing up ?
it depends on the SSD algorithmic architecture, write controller technology among how much you use it per sec.
it also depends on what type of SSD. a SLC (single level cell) SSD is a lot more durable than MLC (multi level cell) SSD, because a SLC SSD is writing its individual bit data in individual cell, instead of an MCL SSD that writes its multi bit data in individual cell, which take up more writing space.
since the memory that stores the data in an SSD consists of block of cells, each time it writes data to that block (it doesn't erase that block once it writes to, unlike HDD), that block automatically creates new blocks until there's no block to write. thus this is when your SSD becomes useless for writing, and it largely depends on the amount of data you write per sec. in other words, the more data it writes per day will dictate how long before your SSD block is full, thus ending its writing life cycle. for reading, it's infinite. SSD can read as long as its hardware is sustainable, which shouldn't be a problem since there's no mechanical stuff operating in the SSD unlike HDD which operated on its disk spinning (more vulnerable to disruption and hardware failure).
in each case, when you buy, the manufacturers will give you an approximation of lifespan of its writing cycle, which is normally 10,000 for MLC and 100,000 for SLC. you can then approximately how much data is writing per day, (approximately about 20-30gb per day). so you can then applied that to 10,000 MLC writing cycle (divide your writing per day to writing life cycle) which give you an approximation north of 3-5 years. for SLC, it's 10x, so about 10 years+. obviously an SLC SSD is much more expensive than an MLC SSD. it's not within manufacturing aim at consumer level. so SLC SSD is for future server and high end computer users.
however, my method of approximating lifespan is manufacture warranty + X (amount of years warranty). so if manufacturers warranty is 3 years, then lifespan is about 6 years.
this is another reason why you shouldn't store data in SSD. once it finishes its block writing cycle, that it, your SSD is done and you need another one. there are limited blocks in the SSD. intel, samsung, western digital are good manufacturing of hard drive, so i recommend these brands.
Once again, thank you very much for your detailed answer - there were still some serious misunderstandings i had about SSD, primarily that also the reading was "depleting" the drive's capabilities.
And i just saw the SLC / MLC price difference. maybe i can still wait until the SLC 64 GB becomes more affordable, since i don't want to settle for just 32, what i see right now is that only the intel x25-e and a disk from Kingston are in a semi-acceptable price range. and the WD SiliconDrive N1x
and i still have the mindset that the graphics card should be the most expensive part in a PC lol
And i just saw the SLC / MLC price difference. maybe i can still wait until the SLC 64 GB becomes more affordable, since i don't want to settle for just 32, what i see right now is that only the intel x25-e and a disk from Kingston are in a semi-acceptable price range. and the WD SiliconDrive N1x
and i still have the mindset that the graphics card should be the most expensive part in a PC lol
OK
Here's a question :
The non-profit film organisation I am with sometimes needs to use a laptop connected to a digital projector system.
What kind of laptop would you recommend for projecting clips, ads, sponsor's logos and short films onto a cinema screen ?
Here's a question :
The non-profit film organisation I am with sometimes needs to use a laptop connected to a digital projector system.
What kind of laptop would you recommend for projecting clips, ads, sponsor's logos and short films onto a cinema screen ?
QUOTE (Ralf @ Dec 10 2010, 06:48 PM)
OK
Here's a question :
The non-profit film organisation I am with sometimes needs to use a laptop connected to a digital projector system.
What kind of laptop would you recommend for projecting clips, ads, sponsor's logos and short films onto a cinema screen ?
Here's a question :
The non-profit film organisation I am with sometimes needs to use a laptop connected to a digital projector system.
What kind of laptop would you recommend for projecting clips, ads, sponsor's logos and short films onto a cinema screen ?
it doesn't matter what laptop brand. what matter is whether the laptop has a dedicated video card, along with a HDMI port to output into a digital projector system.
a core i5 or i7 with nvidia 8800+ is sufficient.
QUOTE (InitialDJay @ Dec 3 2010, 05:55 AM)
anything you want.
QUOTE (Littlegirl @ Dec 11 2010, 06:53 PM)
okay! feel free to ask me any technical question (software/hardware/troubleshooting) you want.
just don't ask me any love or life question.
QUOTE (InitialDJay @ Dec 10 2010, 12:19 AM)
it depends on the SSD algorithmic architecture, write controller technology among how much you use it per sec.
it also depends on what type of SSD. a SLC (single level cell) SSD is a lot more durable than MLC (multi level cell) SSD, because a SLC SSD is writing its individual bit data in individual cell, instead of an MCL SSD that writes its multi bit data in individual cell, which take up more writing space.
since the memory that stores the data in an SSD consists of block of cells, each time it writes data to that block (it doesn't erase that block once it writes to, unlike HDD), that block automatically creates new blocks until there's no block to write. thus this is when your SSD becomes useless for writing, and it largely depends on the amount of data you write per sec. in other words, the more data it writes per day will dictate how long before your SSD block is full, thus ending its writing life cycle. for reading, it's infinite. SSD can read as long as its hardware is sustainable, which shouldn't be a problem since there's no mechanical stuff operating in the SSD unlike HDD which operated on its disk spinning (more vulnerable to disruption and hardware failure).
in each case, when you buy, the manufacturers will give you an approximation of lifespan of its writing cycle, which is normally 10,000 for MLC and 100,000 for SLC. you can then approximately how much data is writing per day, (approximately about 20-30gb per day). so you can then applied that to 10,000 MLC writing cycle (divide your writing per day to writing life cycle) which give you an approximation north of 3-5 years. for SLC, it's 10x, so about 10 years+. obviously an SLC SSD is much more expensive than an MLC SSD. it's not within manufacturing aim at consumer level. so SLC SSD is for future server and high end computer users.
however, my method of approximating lifespan is manufacture warranty + X (amount of years warranty). so if manufacturers warranty is 3 years, then lifespan is about 6 years.
this is another reason why you shouldn't store data in SSD. once it finishes its block writing cycle, that it, your SSD is done and you need another one. there are limited blocks in the SSD. intel, samsung, western digital are good manufacturing of hard drive, so i recommend these brands.
it also depends on what type of SSD. a SLC (single level cell) SSD is a lot more durable than MLC (multi level cell) SSD, because a SLC SSD is writing its individual bit data in individual cell, instead of an MCL SSD that writes its multi bit data in individual cell, which take up more writing space.
since the memory that stores the data in an SSD consists of block of cells, each time it writes data to that block (it doesn't erase that block once it writes to, unlike HDD), that block automatically creates new blocks until there's no block to write. thus this is when your SSD becomes useless for writing, and it largely depends on the amount of data you write per sec. in other words, the more data it writes per day will dictate how long before your SSD block is full, thus ending its writing life cycle. for reading, it's infinite. SSD can read as long as its hardware is sustainable, which shouldn't be a problem since there's no mechanical stuff operating in the SSD unlike HDD which operated on its disk spinning (more vulnerable to disruption and hardware failure).
in each case, when you buy, the manufacturers will give you an approximation of lifespan of its writing cycle, which is normally 10,000 for MLC and 100,000 for SLC. you can then approximately how much data is writing per day, (approximately about 20-30gb per day). so you can then applied that to 10,000 MLC writing cycle (divide your writing per day to writing life cycle) which give you an approximation north of 3-5 years. for SLC, it's 10x, so about 10 years+. obviously an SLC SSD is much more expensive than an MLC SSD. it's not within manufacturing aim at consumer level. so SLC SSD is for future server and high end computer users.
however, my method of approximating lifespan is manufacture warranty + X (amount of years warranty). so if manufacturers warranty is 3 years, then lifespan is about 6 years.
this is another reason why you shouldn't store data in SSD. once it finishes its block writing cycle, that it, your SSD is done and you need another one. there are limited blocks in the SSD. intel, samsung, western digital are good manufacturing of hard drive, so i recommend these brands.
well, what happens if I want to delete files, which would then be deleting at some random cell? how would it be then, like, would it shift the cells, or would it "defrag" the cell to make room for more write?
I have an Acer notebook with an Arrandale Core i5 processor. I would like to upgrade (around 2012) my CPU to another Arrandale Core i5 model (probably with the same wattage, but the best one of the i5s). My questions are:
1) Is it worth it for gaming, knowing that Core i5 will probably be in the bargain bins by then?
2) How stupidly difficult will it be to install and can someone do it for me?
3) Should I just get a new notebook by then?
1) Is it worth it for gaming, knowing that Core i5 will probably be in the bargain bins by then?
2) How stupidly difficult will it be to install and can someone do it for me?
3) Should I just get a new notebook by then?
QUOTE (ZturboZ @ Dec 29 2010, 07:35 AM)
well, what happens if I want to delete files, which would then be deleting at some random cell? how would it be then, like, would it shift the cells, or would it "defrag" the cell to make room for more write?
it shifts the cells and create new cells to write data in. you can use software to compress the data smaller for extra space to write but eventually space to write will run out and your ssd is no longer rewritable. think rechargeable battery.
QUOTE (Suijen @ Dec 29 2010, 12:07 PM)
I have an Acer notebook with an Arrandale Core i5 processor. I would like to upgrade (around 2012) my CPU to another Arrandale Core i5 model (probably with the same wattage, but the best one of the i5s). My questions are:
1) Is it worth it for gaming, knowing that Core i5 will probably be in the bargain bins by then?
2) How stupidly difficult will it be to install and can someone do it for me?
3) Should I just get a new notebook by then?
1) Is it worth it for gaming, knowing that Core i5 will probably be in the bargain bins by then?
2) How stupidly difficult will it be to install and can someone do it for me?
3) Should I just get a new notebook by then?
1. personally, i really don't know the point of upgrading to new model of core i5. if you're going to upgrade, why not upgrade to core i7? for gaming, the important thing is your graphic card. cpu can not make your graphic game accelerated faster. it helps increased fps and loading time though.
2. install cpu on laptop is trickier than a desktop. however the process is the same. all you have to do is unscrewed the laptop case, find the cpu socket, unlock the lid, take out the old cpu, put in the new cpu in alliance with the arrow key. lock the cpu lid and put everything back on. thats it. in some case, you need to install a cpu fan on the laptop to keep it cooling.the fan usually already inside your laptop.
3. how old is your laptop? core i5 is relatively new and quite fast. rule is change laptop every 5 years from the day it is purchased.
1. Yeah, I wanted to know if upgrading from the lowest core i5 to the highest core i5 would mean meaningful FPS differences. A core i7 uses up a lot more energy and produces more heat than my core i5, and I'd rather stick with a CPU with the same specifications. The I5 is 35 TDW all around. Also, I figured that my videocard can only handle so much from new games, so getting an I7 which probably isn't all that supported with today's games may be waste,
2. I've installed desktop CPUs before, but for notebooks it looks like I have to unscrew the whole case.
3. I just got it in June 2010, though I'm pretty sure it'll die in about 3 years especially with how much work I give the CPU/videocard.
2. I've installed desktop CPUs before, but for notebooks it looks like I have to unscrew the whole case.
3. I just got it in June 2010, though I'm pretty sure it'll die in about 3 years especially with how much work I give the CPU/videocard.
QUOTE (Suijen @ Dec 30 2010, 03:52 PM)
1. Yeah, I wanted to know if upgrading from the lowest core i5 to the highest core i5 would mean meaningful FPS differences. A core i7 uses up a lot more energy and produces more heat than my core i5, and I'd rather stick with a CPU with the same specifications. The I5 is 35 TDW all around. Also, I figured that my videocard can only handle so much from new games, so getting an I7 which probably isn't all that supported with today's games may be waste,
2. I've installed desktop CPUs before, but for notebooks it looks like I have to unscrew the whole case.
3. I just got it in June 2010, though I'm pretty sure it'll die in about 3 years especially with how much work I give the CPU/videocard.
2. I've installed desktop CPUs before, but for notebooks it looks like I have to unscrew the whole case.
3. I just got it in June 2010, though I'm pretty sure it'll die in about 3 years especially with how much work I give the CPU/videocard.
1. what specifically is your core i5 model? i5 430M?
you can upgrade to core i7 620M. it essentially produce the same power output. but i7 620 is much faster in auto turbo boost, albeit a bit more expensive. like $20 more than the latest high-end i5 model.
2. of course, laptop part is more compact. you have to essentially put back together exactly. i suggest you video record the moment you take out. so in case, you forget thing, you can watch the video later.
3. jun, 2010? that relative news. shouldn't waste money on another i5 model. but rather sell that laptop and upgrade to a real gamer laptop.
QUOTE (InitialDJay @ Jan 1 2011, 03:37 PM)
3. jun, 2010? that relative news. shouldn't waste money on another i5 model. but rather sell that laptop and upgrade to a real gamer laptop.
Just bite the bullet eh? All right, I probably wouldn't get more than 5 fps for most games with an upped CPU anyways. Thanks IDJ.
QUOTE (Suijen @ Jan 5 2011, 02:53 PM)
Just bite the bullet eh? All right, I probably wouldn't get more than 5 fps for most games with an upped CPU anyways. Thanks IDJ.
why gaming on a laptop with a small screen? it's not worth to spend $$$ on laptop for gaming but you can spend just $1000 for a desktop and play any game with high fps.
Does this include the Tablet PC?
QUOTE (InitialDJay @ Jan 5 2011, 05:08 PM)
why gaming on a laptop with a small screen? it's not worth to spend $$ on laptop for gaming but you can spend just $1000 for a desktop and play any game with high fps.
My lifestyle is now much more mobile, and I do a lot of traveling back and forth now. A desktop is just going to tie me down. I game just fine on my Acer 4820tg (14 inch), but it's heavy at 2.2 kg. The 13 inch Acer 3820tg is lighter at 1.8kg, but I'm pretty sure I can game on a 13.3 incher. Plus, it's handy for holidays and whatnot.
PC related question? Okay, explain to me in a single paragraph how would a Quantum PC work?
QUOTE (Asianese @ Jan 10 2011, 06:34 PM)
PC related question? Okay, explain to me in a single paragraph how would a Quantum PC work?
lol. quantum computer? in practical sense or in theoretical sense?
okay, i give you a simple explanation.
in the current model of computer communication, we use transistor for the flow of binary bit (on/off in electric voltage) to represent a certain letter, number, special character in a 32/64 bit processor and store them into a virtual memory. in quantum computer, the task is the same except, we use electron/photon/ion impulse of up/down due to engagement of quantum particle interaction in two states simultaneously and place them inside the quantum bit. this allows the task to be calculated faster by doing it together and measure the probability distribution to get the most correct answer to a problem, rather than in traditional method of arithmetics that required to follow step-by-step process.
anyway, quantum computer is not really yet working in practical sense to solve complex logical problem as it requires more than 32 quantum bits to do that. so far, i believe we only calculated them with only 16bits at the most. there is also the problem of computing more quantum bits due to the uncertainty principle. basically, the more quantum bits is added, the harder it is to keep track of information store inside that bit due to the nature of duality.
in order to have a breakthrough in quantum computer, there has to be an architecture to allow info to be store and achieved back without us observing it. since the act of observing the information, we are collapsing the engagement of quantum bit.
I think the Quantum Computer already exists and it is the Human Brain.
QUOTE (martin_nuke @ Jan 17 2011, 02:20 PM)
I think the Quantum Computer already exists and it is the Human Brain.
but a human brain can't perform reiteration over vast amount of data.
i have some questions about Teksavvy. i dont know if you know about them, but i have a lot of basic internet questions. mainly due to my lack of knowledge in the area...lol...
here is their site
http://teksavvy.com/en/residential.asp
pics of the order page that confused the hell out of me....
1. if maintain bell for home phone service, does that mean i dont need a dry loop?
2. what is the difference between wet and dry loop
3. what is # of connections and what happens if we choose none
4. does modem combo mean the router is included with the modem?
5. what is Dry DSL
6. under "hardware" what is a filter?
well frankly, most of the items i have no clue what they are or what they do.....
here is their site
http://teksavvy.com/en/residential.asp
pics of the order page that confused the hell out of me....
1. if maintain bell for home phone service, does that mean i dont need a dry loop?
2. what is the difference between wet and dry loop
3. what is # of connections and what happens if we choose none
4. does modem combo mean the router is included with the modem?
5. what is Dry DSL
6. under "hardware" what is a filter?
well frankly, most of the items i have no clue what they are or what they do.....
QUOTE (Mid-Night_Sun @ Apr 23 2011, 04:45 AM)
i have some questions about Teksavvy. i dont know if you know about them, but i have a lot of basic internet questions. mainly due to my lack of knowledge in the area...lol...
here is their site
http://teksavvy.com/en/residential.asp
pics of the order page that confused the hell out of me....
1. if maintain bell for home phone service, does that mean i dont need a dry loop?
2. what is the difference between wet and dry loop
3. what is # of connections and what happens if we choose none
4. does modem combo mean the router is included with the modem?
5. what is Dry DSL
6. under "hardware" what is a filter?
well frankly, most of the items i have no clue what they are or what they do.....
here is their site
http://teksavvy.com/en/residential.asp
pics of the order page that confused the hell out of me....
1. if maintain bell for home phone service, does that mean i dont need a dry loop?
2. what is the difference between wet and dry loop
3. what is # of connections and what happens if we choose none
4. does modem combo mean the router is included with the modem?
5. what is Dry DSL
6. under "hardware" what is a filter?
well frankly, most of the items i have no clue what they are or what they do.....
1. yes
2. wet is having an active telephone line. a dry loop does not need to have an active telephone line to have DSL connection.
3. it's how many line you want for your internet. with more connection, you can split to share bandwidth with people in your home. if choose none, you get no internet service or telephone line.
4. i'm not too sure what that is. in my opinion, it means the modern is duo type which can act as a router and modern at one.
5. dry dsl is basically a kind of DSL line that doesn't required you to have a telephone line. in conventional dsl, you need to have telephone line to connect to internet. so dry dsl makes it possible without the need for it.
6. not sure. probably to filter traffic?
QUOTE (InitialDJay @ Apr 24 2011, 02:41 AM)
1. yes
2. wet is having an active telephone line. a dry loop does not need to have an active telephone line to have DSL connection.
3. it's how many line you want for your internet. with more connection, you can split to share bandwidth with people in your home. if choose none, you get no internet service or telephone line.
4. i'm not too sure what that is. in my opinion, it means the modern is duo type which can act as a router and modern at one.
5. dry dsl is basically a kind of DSL line that doesn't required you to have a telephone line. in conventional dsl, you need to have telephone line to connect to internet. so dry dsl makes it possible without the need for it.
6. not sure. probably to filter traffic?
2. wet is having an active telephone line. a dry loop does not need to have an active telephone line to have DSL connection.
3. it's how many line you want for your internet. with more connection, you can split to share bandwidth with people in your home. if choose none, you get no internet service or telephone line.
4. i'm not too sure what that is. in my opinion, it means the modern is duo type which can act as a router and modern at one.
5. dry dsl is basically a kind of DSL line that doesn't required you to have a telephone line. in conventional dsl, you need to have telephone line to connect to internet. so dry dsl makes it possible without the need for it.
6. not sure. probably to filter traffic?
thanks for the answers.
3. dang, why would they even have 'none' in there lol. if i chose 1, and my phone is separate. does that mean that 1 is the wireless?
QUOTE (Mid-Night_Sun @ Apr 25 2011, 10:05 AM)
thanks for the answers.
3. dang, why would they even have 'none' in there lol. if i chose 1, and my phone is separate. does that mean that 1 is the wireless?
3. dang, why would they even have 'none' in there lol. if i chose 1, and my phone is separate. does that mean that 1 is the wireless?
nope. i think that is the default. 1 connection to split between telephone line and internet line. you can connect wirelessly as long as you have internet or jack off from a neighbor network without wep or wpa protection.
What is the best laptop computer for the money now a days???
QUOTE (avisitor @ Apr 26 2011, 10:38 AM)
What is the best laptop computer for the money now a days???
that not enough information to give you an answer. however, i advice you this... if you can get an i5 laptop under $500, snaps it and forget the brand, etc...
This guy knows his stuff, including network-related things too
acer or asus?
i want to be able to play sc2 at its highest quality setting without lag (so vid card, graphic...stuff is important)
and i dont want it to be huge. thin and light if possible.
i want to be able to play sc2 at its highest quality setting without lag (so vid card, graphic...stuff is important)
and i dont want it to be huge. thin and light if possible.
QUOTE (Mid-Night_Sun @ Aug 6 2011, 08:42 PM)
acer or asus?
i want to be able to play sc2 at its highest quality setting without lag (so vid card, graphic...stuff is important)
and i dont want it to be huge. thin and light if possible.
i want to be able to play sc2 at its highest quality setting without lag (so vid card, graphic...stuff is important)
and i dont want it to be huge. thin and light if possible.
Let me guess...you're Korean?
Can I ask you a question?...why do some of yall style your hair all crazy like you're going out and then spend all day long playing starcraft?
me don't get it.
QUOTE (KristineMjohnson @ Aug 6 2011, 10:41 PM)
Let me guess...you're Korean?
Can I ask you a question?...why do some of yall style your hair all crazy like you're going out and then spend all day long playing starcraft?
me don't get it.
Can I ask you a question?...why do some of yall style your hair all crazy like you're going out and then spend all day long playing starcraft?
me don't get it.
nope.
i dont do that so i wouldnt know. sc2 is the most graphic intensive game i own (lol) so i want to make sure if i get a new laptop i can play it without any issues. im not experienced with computer lingo, so i dont know what amount of gig or processor or w/e i want.
i can only say, i want to be able to play sc2 at its highest quality setting without lag.
QUOTE (Mid-Night_Sun @ Aug 7 2011, 08:42 AM)
acer or asus?
i want to be able to play sc2 at its highest quality setting without lag (so vid card, graphic...stuff is important)
and i dont want it to be huge. thin and light if possible.
i want to be able to play sc2 at its highest quality setting without lag (so vid card, graphic...stuff is important)
and i dont want it to be huge. thin and light if possible.
sorry didn't see this post.
i say go with asus. acer is not an gaming brand as far as i know
as for playing sc2.. all you know is any laptop with graphic above nvidia 9000 series or any ati HD graphic series. with that in mind, those laptop would range around 700 buck. though if you want thin and light, then it'll be more expensive. also you can't expect a gaming laptop or even mid-range gaming laptop to be light and thin.
I have a new notebook Dell Infinity is it good for gaming?
what is the spec?
Due to my location I've got USB wireless broadband. Usually I will have the USB plugged into my desktop, however I am wondering if it is possible to share the connection over a LAN
QUOTE (InitialDJay @ Aug 15 2011, 12:24 AM)
sorry didn't see this post.
i say go with asus. acer is not an gaming brand as far as i know
as for playing sc2.. all you know is any laptop with graphic above nvidia 9000 series or any ati HD graphic series. with that in mind, those laptop would range around 700 buck. though if you want thin and light, then it'll be more expensive. also you can't expect a gaming laptop or even mid-range gaming laptop to be light and thin.
i say go with asus. acer is not an gaming brand as far as i know
as for playing sc2.. all you know is any laptop with graphic above nvidia 9000 series or any ati HD graphic series. with that in mind, those laptop would range around 700 buck. though if you want thin and light, then it'll be more expensive. also you can't expect a gaming laptop or even mid-range gaming laptop to be light and thin.
is there a desktop model that would better suit my needs? i was told desktop would be better specs. but i have no clue about desktops either.
i guess my questions is, with $1,000 being the limit and focus on performance/speed, what desktop model would you get? harddrive space isnt that big of an issue to me since i plan for those 1 TB passport external harddrives.
QUOTE (Mid-Night_Sun @ Aug 17 2011, 03:56 PM)
is there a desktop model that would better suit my needs? i was told desktop would be better specs. but i have no clue about desktops either.
i guess my questions is, with $1,000 being the limit and focus on performance/speed, what desktop model would you get? harddrive space isnt that big of an issue to me since i plan for those 1 TB passport external harddrives.
i guess my questions is, with $1,000 being the limit and focus on performance/speed, what desktop model would you get? harddrive space isnt that big of an issue to me since i plan for those 1 TB passport external harddrives.
desktop offers better flexibility and power for gaming. for $1000 as the limit, you can build high-end desktop with core i7 by yourself. if you buy prebuild, than it won't be that much good.
let me do an estimated as i just build a desktop few weeks ago.
Power Supply: 700watt for about $60.
CPU: core i7 950 $260 ( i recommend 2nd generation core i7 though) which is about $300.
motherboard: asus p6t with usb3 support, 6ghz sata. high-end motherboard for about $200.
hard drive: if you're serious about future gaming or doing high-end computer stuff that want maximized speed, get the 64gb M4 SSD as a bootable hard drive and have two standard hardisks in raid for gaming and file storing. all these about ($150). if just 1 regular hard drive, it's about $40 for 500gb.
CD-rom: dirt cheap like $20
RAM: 8gb for like $50 (you're only need 2gb, but gaming you need more than 4gb). and that's high-end RAM.
OS: window 7 home/professional edition is about $70-$130, but you can get it $30 if you're a student. i assume you're a student, so you can buy new window 7 for 30.
videocard: $140 for mid-range videocard that can just play play any games at high resolution with excellent fps.
Case: $60
total: $1000 with all high-end stuff and extremely fast SSD and can gaming just about everything and computer look cool. like this computer i just built.
however if you're buying prebuild, this would cost at least $1500.
you also has to think about a monitor as well. so i guess spend $200 for a "24 PC screen?
btw, this site http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/ ... are customized pc builder. you can check out their price and customize your own and check the total. i personally recommend you build it as you experience the process and would never want to go back buying pre-build again. it's soooo easy to build computer. lol
here an advice: anytime you buy pc, always buy the 2nd best CPU and motherboard as these are two hardest to upgrade later and are expensive.
QUOTE (InitialDJay @ Aug 18 2011, 02:12 AM)
desktop offers better flexibility and power for gaming. for $1000 as the limit, you can build high-end desktop with core i7 by yourself. if you buy prebuild, than it won't be that much good.
let me do an estimated as i just build a desktop few weeks ago.
Power Supply: 700watt for about $60.
CPU: core i7 950 $260 ( i recommend 2nd generation core i7 though) which is about $300.
motherboard: asus p6t with usb3 support, 6ghz sata. high-end motherboard for about $200.
hard drive: if you're serious about future gaming or doing high-end computer stuff that want maximized speed, get the 64gb M4 SSD as a bootable hard drive and have two standard hardisks in raid for gaming and file storing. all these about ($150). if just 1 regular hard drive, it's about $40 for 500gb.
CD-rom: dirt cheap like $20
RAM: 8gb for like $50 (you're only need 2gb, but gaming you need more than 4gb). and that's high-end RAM.
OS: window 7 home/professional edition is about $70-$130, but you can get it $30 if you're a student. i assume you're a student, so you can buy new window 7 for 30.
videocard: $140 for mid-range videocard that can just play play any games at high resolution with excellent fps.
Case: $60
total: $1000 with all high-end stuff and extremely fast SSD and can gaming just about everything and computer look cool. like this computer i just built.
however if you're buying prebuild, this would cost at least $1500.
you also has to think about a monitor as well. so i guess spend $200 for a "24 PC screen?
btw, this site http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/ ... are customized pc builder. you can check out their price and customize your own and check the total. i personally recommend you build it as you experience the process and would never want to go back buying pre-build again. it's soooo easy to build computer. lol
here an advice: anytime you buy pc, always buy the 2nd best CPU and motherboard as these are two hardest to upgrade later and are expensive.
let me do an estimated as i just build a desktop few weeks ago.
Power Supply: 700watt for about $60.
CPU: core i7 950 $260 ( i recommend 2nd generation core i7 though) which is about $300.
motherboard: asus p6t with usb3 support, 6ghz sata. high-end motherboard for about $200.
hard drive: if you're serious about future gaming or doing high-end computer stuff that want maximized speed, get the 64gb M4 SSD as a bootable hard drive and have two standard hardisks in raid for gaming and file storing. all these about ($150). if just 1 regular hard drive, it's about $40 for 500gb.
CD-rom: dirt cheap like $20
RAM: 8gb for like $50 (you're only need 2gb, but gaming you need more than 4gb). and that's high-end RAM.
OS: window 7 home/professional edition is about $70-$130, but you can get it $30 if you're a student. i assume you're a student, so you can buy new window 7 for 30.
videocard: $140 for mid-range videocard that can just play play any games at high resolution with excellent fps.
Case: $60
total: $1000 with all high-end stuff and extremely fast SSD and can gaming just about everything and computer look cool. like this computer i just built.
however if you're buying prebuild, this would cost at least $1500.
you also has to think about a monitor as well. so i guess spend $200 for a "24 PC screen?
btw, this site http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/ ... are customized pc builder. you can check out their price and customize your own and check the total. i personally recommend you build it as you experience the process and would never want to go back buying pre-build again. it's soooo easy to build computer. lol
here an advice: anytime you buy pc, always buy the 2nd best CPU and motherboard as these are two hardest to upgrade later and are expensive.
thanks alot. your comp looks awesome.
lmao, building my own computer, that never crossed my mind. im definitely going to look into it though. i forgot to mention, and hdmi port is a must for me. although thats also why i dont really need a monitor.
what do you think of the pre-builds i found so far?
Dell XPS 8300 Media Desktop
Featured at $799.991
Processor - Intel® Core™ i7-2600 processor(8MB Cache, 3.4GHz)
Operating System - Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English
Monitor - No Monitor
Memory3 - 8GB3 DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz
Hard Drive - 1000GB4 SATA hard drive (7200RPM)
Video Card - AMD Radeon™ HD 6450 1GB DDR3
Optical Drive - Single Drive: 16X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
Acer Predator AG3600-U4082u Gaming Desktop (Black)
Price: $823.44
Processor, Memory, and Motherboard
Hardware Platform: PC
Processor: 2.1 GHz Intel Core i5
Number of Processors: 1
RAM: 8 GB
RAM Type: SDRAM
Hard Drive
Size: 1500 GB
Type: ATA100
IdeaCentre K330 - 77273FU - Black
Sale price: $1,399.00
Model Highlights
Part number: 77273FU
Intel® Core™ i7-2600 Processor ( 3.40GHz 1333MHz 8MB )
Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460
12 GB PC3-10600 DDR3 SDRAM 1333MHz
2TB 7200
Blu-ray /DVD Combo
QUOTE (Mid-Night_Sun @ Aug 19 2011, 05:01 AM)
thanks alot. your comp looks awesome.
lmao, building my own computer, that never crossed my mind. im definitely going to look into it though. i forgot to mention, and hdmi port is a must for me. although thats also why i dont really need a monitor.
what do you think of the pre-builds i found so far?
Dell XPS 8300 Media Desktop
Featured at $799.991
Processor - Intel® Core™ i7-2600 processor(8MB Cache, 3.4GHz)
Operating System - Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English
Monitor - No Monitor
Memory3 - 8GB3 DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz
Hard Drive - 1000GB4 SATA hard drive (7200RPM)
Video Card - AMD Radeon™ HD 6450 1GB DDR3
Optical Drive - Single Drive: 16X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
Acer Predator AG3600-U4082u Gaming Desktop (Black)
Price: $823.44
Processor, Memory, and Motherboard
Hardware Platform: PC
Processor: 2.1 GHz Intel Core i5
Number of Processors: 1
RAM: 8 GB
RAM Type: SDRAM
Hard Drive
Size: 1500 GB
Type: ATA100
IdeaCentre K330 - 77273FU - Black
Sale price: $1,399.00
Model Highlights
Part number: 77273FU
Intel® Core™ i7-2600 Processor ( 3.40GHz 1333MHz 8MB )
Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460
12 GB PC3-10600 DDR3 SDRAM 1333MHz
2TB 7200
Blu-ray /DVD Combo
lmao, building my own computer, that never crossed my mind. im definitely going to look into it though. i forgot to mention, and hdmi port is a must for me. although thats also why i dont really need a monitor.
what do you think of the pre-builds i found so far?
Dell XPS 8300 Media Desktop
Featured at $799.991
Processor - Intel® Core™ i7-2600 processor(8MB Cache, 3.4GHz)
Operating System - Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English
Monitor - No Monitor
Memory3 - 8GB3 DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz
Hard Drive - 1000GB4 SATA hard drive (7200RPM)
Video Card - AMD Radeon™ HD 6450 1GB DDR3
Optical Drive - Single Drive: 16X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
Acer Predator AG3600-U4082u Gaming Desktop (Black)
Price: $823.44
Processor, Memory, and Motherboard
Hardware Platform: PC
Processor: 2.1 GHz Intel Core i5
Number of Processors: 1
RAM: 8 GB
RAM Type: SDRAM
Hard Drive
Size: 1500 GB
Type: ATA100
IdeaCentre K330 - 77273FU - Black
Sale price: $1,399.00
Model Highlights
Part number: 77273FU
Intel® Core™ i7-2600 Processor ( 3.40GHz 1333MHz 8MB )
Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460
12 GB PC3-10600 DDR3 SDRAM 1333MHz
2TB 7200
Blu-ray /DVD Combo
lol why not build it yourself as you can put in whatever you want.
if hdmi is a requirement, then you need a quality video card. i suggest nvidia gtx460. it supports everything (3d support, hdmi, dual dvi, direct 11, physicX, etc..) and allow you to play games at high resolution. best price for the buck for video card now and the future.
okay, this is what i thought.. lol
Dell XPS 8300 Media Desktop - not a gaming computer, more like just low gaming computer. you'll be able to play sc2 but at low to med resolution. RAM is clock at only 1333MHz which is okay, but not the best RAM out there. now it's 1600MHz at 1.5v which can overclock. anyway RAM is okayish but these are easy upgradable. as for the computer case itself. it doesn't offer flexibility for upgrade and doesn't offer air ventilation. for gaming, this is important as you don't want air to get trap inside the case which will heat up. grade: C-
Acer Predator AG3600-U4082u Gaming Desktop (Black) - lol i love how they claim it's a gaming desktop and only put in a bleh core i5. this is not a quad core computer and only a nvidia gtx 420, sc2 gaming won't be an issue. but in the future, this will limit your ability to gaming with future sc2 or other high-end games. same as the Dell XPS, the case lacks air ventilation and flexibility in upgrade. grade: C
IdeaCentre K330 - 77273FU - Black - it's a solid gaming. here you get quad core 2nd generation core i7. again, an 8gb 1600MHz is better than 12gb 1333Mhz. nvidiia gtx 460 is solid good. 2TB is good for storing, but since you have external drive. .. then it's useless. Blu-ray/DVD combom CD-rom is actually not needed as you will probably never going to play blu-ray disc. anyway at $1400 for this desktop? that is too pricey for a little above gaming desktop. it's weaker than my recent built in just about everything, and i estimated i build it for only $700-$800. grade: B+ for gaming, overall as price adjusted: F-
dont buy Dell/HP or any major brand if you're into gaming. these brands aren't known for gaming. they are mostly home-entertainment system, business-oriented, or general mainstream computer. even Dell partner with Alienware to build gaming system for them.
sigh*ok, then i want to make the computer you just told me about since it seems to be the best for the 1k im willing to spend.
new questions
1. acquiring the parts.
- would i take that list of stuff you showed me to futureshop or something and ask for it?
- can i buy it online from one site (like the cyberpowerpc you linked), or do i have to scrounge around ebay looking for all the parts?
2. assembly
- i dont suppose theres a tutorial somewhere, preferably on youtube so i can see it LOL -_-
1. yes, but i'm only giving you the general stuff. if you're ready to build. then i will give you more detail stuff what you need to buy since you have to make sure all the parts are compatible. for example, if you're using intel chipset, then you need motherboard design for intel. also the chipset socket number needs to match with the motherboard. some newer motherboard only support sata because IDE is too old and slow, so if you're buying a hard drive and CD-ROM, you need to buy only the sata one as well.
watch this guy. he will show you the basic to build a computer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUY0tP5jYIo
anyway, the way he applies thermal paste on his heatsink is wrong and among other things. also in this video, he's using integrated heatsink that come along with intel chip. if you want to overclock (make the computer faster than its default), you will need a third-part CPU heatsink like the white LED you see on my computer there. also this video, he's using only 1 hard drive. for RAID configuration, you'll need at least 2.
my pc build is more complex as i have an SSD (solid state driver sata III) as an operation system bootable drive while i have 2 WD hard drive in RAID 0 configuration for storing and install game and software, plus a separated hard drive for backup. so if you want to build like me, you would need 3 hard drives and 1 SSD. =p
the rest is simple but each case has different ways to align the components. so unless you're buying the exact case model as that guy in the video, then you don't need to worry about it. but most case have exact function, just different way to place its parts. in mine, i have cable management where everything is neat and cable is hidden. it takes a bit more experience in building computer to maneuver it. =p first-timer, you might want to invest in time look at people computer and see how they build it.
if you want to have somebody build for you, then yeah.. just buy all the parts and bring it to them. however, you don't know how good of a job they build your computer cuz most likely they won't give a $hit about cable management, so it's better to get someone professional and trusted to assemble it for you. that site cyberpowerpc is a professional pc builder. they charge you more if you want cable management and also shipping fee is high too. however, don't worry about it.. don't waste money with cable management since that they should build well cuz fear of customer complain. though, it's important to keep track of warranty.
are you familiar with each computer component function? you need to know before you build it. i'll give you a quick walk-through
motherboard: it's the function to connect all hard drive, CPU chipset, CD-ROM, etc... motherboards come with size model as well. so if you're buying ATX motherboard, then you need to buy case support ATX. there are two major brands in this field, Asus and Nvidia.
CPU: it's the computer brain. it's the chipset to run stuff. Intel and AMD are two competing rival. each chipset come with a specific socket number. for example intell 775, 1366, 1566, etc.. therefore if you're buying an core i7 1366, you need to buy a mother intel socket 1366. intel obviously slightly better.
hard drive: there's two kind of hard drive. one is standard disk drive, the other is solid state drive. solid state drive (SSD) doesn't require spinning wheel, therefore it's much much faster. the fastest standard drive spinning at 10,000RPM is slower than a SSD sata II, let along SSD MLC sataIII. so that's why SSD is the future. though a lot more expensive obviously. Western Digital/Seagate are good standard disk drive. Intel/Crucial are good brand for SSD.
CD-ROM: it's the Cd reader and burner. no need to explain. any brand is good.
power supply: well you need to get a good power supply, above 600watt for gaming since your video card will consume a lot more power than a regular mainstream computer.
RAM: ram is basically virtual memory. the computer programs access and store temporary data to RAM. more RAM, the better. though speed like 2000MHz vs 1600MHz vs 1333Mhz vs 1066 make a different. Any brand is fine.
case: case is important since it's the look and design. there's also different size of case. small, mid-tower, and full tower. the bigger the better, but more heavy. any brand is alright. recommend antec and cooler master.
watch this guy. he will show you the basic to build a computer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUY0tP5jYIo
anyway, the way he applies thermal paste on his heatsink is wrong and among other things. also in this video, he's using integrated heatsink that come along with intel chip. if you want to overclock (make the computer faster than its default), you will need a third-part CPU heatsink like the white LED you see on my computer there. also this video, he's using only 1 hard drive. for RAID configuration, you'll need at least 2.
my pc build is more complex as i have an SSD (solid state driver sata III) as an operation system bootable drive while i have 2 WD hard drive in RAID 0 configuration for storing and install game and software, plus a separated hard drive for backup. so if you want to build like me, you would need 3 hard drives and 1 SSD. =p
the rest is simple but each case has different ways to align the components. so unless you're buying the exact case model as that guy in the video, then you don't need to worry about it. but most case have exact function, just different way to place its parts. in mine, i have cable management where everything is neat and cable is hidden. it takes a bit more experience in building computer to maneuver it. =p first-timer, you might want to invest in time look at people computer and see how they build it.
if you want to have somebody build for you, then yeah.. just buy all the parts and bring it to them. however, you don't know how good of a job they build your computer cuz most likely they won't give a $hit about cable management, so it's better to get someone professional and trusted to assemble it for you. that site cyberpowerpc is a professional pc builder. they charge you more if you want cable management and also shipping fee is high too. however, don't worry about it.. don't waste money with cable management since that they should build well cuz fear of customer complain. though, it's important to keep track of warranty.
are you familiar with each computer component function? you need to know before you build it. i'll give you a quick walk-through
motherboard: it's the function to connect all hard drive, CPU chipset, CD-ROM, etc... motherboards come with size model as well. so if you're buying ATX motherboard, then you need to buy case support ATX. there are two major brands in this field, Asus and Nvidia.
CPU: it's the computer brain. it's the chipset to run stuff. Intel and AMD are two competing rival. each chipset come with a specific socket number. for example intell 775, 1366, 1566, etc.. therefore if you're buying an core i7 1366, you need to buy a mother intel socket 1366. intel obviously slightly better.
hard drive: there's two kind of hard drive. one is standard disk drive, the other is solid state drive. solid state drive (SSD) doesn't require spinning wheel, therefore it's much much faster. the fastest standard drive spinning at 10,000RPM is slower than a SSD sata II, let along SSD MLC sataIII. so that's why SSD is the future. though a lot more expensive obviously. Western Digital/Seagate are good standard disk drive. Intel/Crucial are good brand for SSD.
CD-ROM: it's the Cd reader and burner. no need to explain. any brand is good.
power supply: well you need to get a good power supply, above 600watt for gaming since your video card will consume a lot more power than a regular mainstream computer.
RAM: ram is basically virtual memory. the computer programs access and store temporary data to RAM. more RAM, the better. though speed like 2000MHz vs 1600MHz vs 1333Mhz vs 1066 make a different. Any brand is fine.
case: case is important since it's the look and design. there's also different size of case. small, mid-tower, and full tower. the bigger the better, but more heavy. any brand is alright. recommend antec and cooler master.
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QUOTE (InitialDJay @ Aug 20 2011, 03:33 AM)
1. yes, but i'm only giving you the general stuff. if you're ready to build. then i will give you more detail stuff what you need to buy since you have to make sure all the parts are compatible. for example, if you're using intel chipset, then you need motherboard design for intel. also the chipset socket number needs to match with the motherboard. some newer motherboard only support sata because IDE is too old and slow, so if you're buying a hard drive and CD-ROM, you need to buy only the sata one as well.
watch this guy. he will show you the basic to build a computer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUY0tP5jYIo
anyway, the way he applies thermal paste on his heatsink is wrong and among other things. also in this video, he's using integrated heatsink that come along with intel chip. if you want to overclock (make the computer faster than its default), you will need a third-part CPU heatsink like the white LED you see on my computer there. also this video, he's using only 1 hard drive. for RAID configuration, you'll need at least 2.
my pc build is more complex as i have an SSD (solid state driver sata III) as an operation system bootable drive while i have 2 WD hard drive in RAID 0 configuration for storing and install game and software, plus a separated hard drive for backup. so if you want to build like me, you would need 3 hard drives and 1 SSD. =p
the rest is simple but each case has different ways to align the components. so unless you're buying the exact case model as that guy in the video, then you don't need to worry about it. but most case have exact function, just different way to place its parts. in mine, i have cable management where everything is neat and cable is hidden. it takes a bit more experience in building computer to maneuver it. =p first-timer, you might want to invest in time look at people computer and see how they build it.
if you want to have somebody build for you, then yeah.. just buy all the parts and bring it to them. however, you don't know how good of a job they build your computer cuz most likely they won't give a $hit about cable management, so it's better to get someone professional and trusted to assemble it for you. that site cyberpowerpc is a professional pc builder. they charge you more if you want cable management and also shipping fee is high too. however, don't worry about it.. don't waste money with cable management since that they should build well cuz fear of customer complain. though, it's important to keep track of warranty.
are you familiar with each computer component function? you need to know before you build it. i'll give you a quick walk-through
motherboard: it's the function to connect all hard drive, CPU chipset, CD-ROM, etc... motherboards come with size model as well. so if you're buying ATX motherboard, then you need to buy case support ATX. there are two major brands in this field, Asus and Nvidia.
CPU: it's the computer brain. it's the chipset to run stuff. Intel and AMD are two competing rival. each chipset come with a specific socket number. for example intell 775, 1366, 1566, etc.. therefore if you're buying an core i7 1366, you need to buy a mother intel socket 1366. intel obviously slightly better.
hard drive: there's two kind of hard drive. one is standard disk drive, the other is solid state drive. solid state drive (SSD) doesn't require spinning wheel, therefore it's much much faster. the fastest standard drive spinning at 10,000RPM is slower than a SSD sata II, let along SSD MLC sataIII. so that's why SSD is the future. though a lot more expensive obviously. Western Digital/Seagate are good standard disk drive. Intel/Crucial are good brand for SSD.
CD-ROM: it's the Cd reader and burner. no need to explain. any brand is good.
power supply: well you need to get a good power supply, above 600watt for gaming since your video card will consume a lot more power than a regular mainstream computer.
RAM: ram is basically virtual memory. the computer programs access and store temporary data to RAM. more RAM, the better. though speed like 2000MHz vs 1600MHz vs 1333Mhz vs 1066 make a different. Any brand is fine.
case: case is important since it's the look and design. there's also different size of case. small, mid-tower, and full tower. the bigger the better, but more heavy. any brand is alright. recommend antec and cooler master.
watch this guy. he will show you the basic to build a computer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUY0tP5jYIo
anyway, the way he applies thermal paste on his heatsink is wrong and among other things. also in this video, he's using integrated heatsink that come along with intel chip. if you want to overclock (make the computer faster than its default), you will need a third-part CPU heatsink like the white LED you see on my computer there. also this video, he's using only 1 hard drive. for RAID configuration, you'll need at least 2.
my pc build is more complex as i have an SSD (solid state driver sata III) as an operation system bootable drive while i have 2 WD hard drive in RAID 0 configuration for storing and install game and software, plus a separated hard drive for backup. so if you want to build like me, you would need 3 hard drives and 1 SSD. =p
the rest is simple but each case has different ways to align the components. so unless you're buying the exact case model as that guy in the video, then you don't need to worry about it. but most case have exact function, just different way to place its parts. in mine, i have cable management where everything is neat and cable is hidden. it takes a bit more experience in building computer to maneuver it. =p first-timer, you might want to invest in time look at people computer and see how they build it.
if you want to have somebody build for you, then yeah.. just buy all the parts and bring it to them. however, you don't know how good of a job they build your computer cuz most likely they won't give a $hit about cable management, so it's better to get someone professional and trusted to assemble it for you. that site cyberpowerpc is a professional pc builder. they charge you more if you want cable management and also shipping fee is high too. however, don't worry about it.. don't waste money with cable management since that they should build well cuz fear of customer complain. though, it's important to keep track of warranty.
are you familiar with each computer component function? you need to know before you build it. i'll give you a quick walk-through
motherboard: it's the function to connect all hard drive, CPU chipset, CD-ROM, etc... motherboards come with size model as well. so if you're buying ATX motherboard, then you need to buy case support ATX. there are two major brands in this field, Asus and Nvidia.
CPU: it's the computer brain. it's the chipset to run stuff. Intel and AMD are two competing rival. each chipset come with a specific socket number. for example intell 775, 1366, 1566, etc.. therefore if you're buying an core i7 1366, you need to buy a mother intel socket 1366. intel obviously slightly better.
hard drive: there's two kind of hard drive. one is standard disk drive, the other is solid state drive. solid state drive (SSD) doesn't require spinning wheel, therefore it's much much faster. the fastest standard drive spinning at 10,000RPM is slower than a SSD sata II, let along SSD MLC sataIII. so that's why SSD is the future. though a lot more expensive obviously. Western Digital/Seagate are good standard disk drive. Intel/Crucial are good brand for SSD.
CD-ROM: it's the Cd reader and burner. no need to explain. any brand is good.
power supply: well you need to get a good power supply, above 600watt for gaming since your video card will consume a lot more power than a regular mainstream computer.
RAM: ram is basically virtual memory. the computer programs access and store temporary data to RAM. more RAM, the better. though speed like 2000MHz vs 1600MHz vs 1333Mhz vs 1066 make a different. Any brand is fine.
case: case is important since it's the look and design. there's also different size of case. small, mid-tower, and full tower. the bigger the better, but more heavy. any brand is alright. recommend antec and cooler master.
thanks, i appreciate all this info.
oh sweet, so i can just tell cyberpowerpc that list and i can pay them to build and ship it to me? i wouldnt mind paying more for them to build it for me and have cable management.
i am ready to move forward on this project because whether i get cyberpowerpc to do it or i try myself ill need that list of components.
oh, found a wrinkle.
"power supply: well you need to get a good power supply, above 600watt for gaming since your video card will consume a lot more power than a regular mainstream computer."
in regards to this, i can say that my breaker gives me a standard 15 amps. i dont know if that means i get over 600 watt. in the very likely event that i cant generate that power, id like to inquire what is the best computer i can build for a standard 15 amp power supply lol.
QUOTE (Mid-Night_Sun @ Aug 28 2011, 05:39 AM)
thanks, i appreciate all this info.
oh sweet, so i can just tell cyberpowerpc that list and i can pay them to build and ship it to me? i wouldnt mind paying more for them to build it for me and have cable management.
i am ready to move forward on this project because whether i get cyberpowerpc to do it or i try myself ill need that list of components.
oh, found a wrinkle.
"power supply: well you need to get a good power supply, above 600watt for gaming since your video card will consume a lot more power than a regular mainstream computer."
in regards to this, i can say that my breaker gives me a standard 15 amps. i dont know if that means i get over 600 watt. in the very likely event that i cant generate that power, id like to inquire what is the best computer i can build for a standard 15 amp power supply lol.
oh sweet, so i can just tell cyberpowerpc that list and i can pay them to build and ship it to me? i wouldnt mind paying more for them to build it for me and have cable management.
i am ready to move forward on this project because whether i get cyberpowerpc to do it or i try myself ill need that list of components.
oh, found a wrinkle.
"power supply: well you need to get a good power supply, above 600watt for gaming since your video card will consume a lot more power than a regular mainstream computer."
in regards to this, i can say that my breaker gives me a standard 15 amps. i dont know if that means i get over 600 watt. in the very likely event that i cant generate that power, id like to inquire what is the best computer i can build for a standard 15 amp power supply lol.
yeah, you can select on the list and cyberpowerpc would assembling them together and ship you a finished product. all you have to do is put in the window CD operation system, and begin installation. cable management is basically a way to professionally hiding the cables and make inside the computer look neat and organize so air flows better. but like i said, even without cable management, they should do a good job of cable tie up so don't waste $$ on it.
the equation for power and amp is given by P = I * V.
P = power watt
I = Current (amp)
V = voltage
so if you know that your current is max at 15amp, and if you know the voltage that your hourse generated. i believe in north america, most house generate about 120V. therefore, the maximum allowable power is 1800watt. so a 700watt power supply is a piece of cake. here what's i recommend from going the imporant to least important
case: choose any case you like there. do you want mid-size case or full-tower? if you don't intend of putting two video cards and take up your computer space.. go with mid-town. the antec 902 is excellent or go with coolant master HAF if you can spare some buck.
http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.as...=Computer-Cases 100
CPU: intel core i7 2600 is an excellent 2nd generation core i7 with full support of turbo and overclock for even faster speed! you won't need to upgrade later for at least 5-10 years.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16819115071 300
motherboard: since the intel core i7 2600 socket # is 1155, get the asus P8Z68 V PRO. this motherboard supports all new current technologies like USB3.0 and 6gb (sata III) to take advantage of the speed of ssd and usb transfer speed of 3.0. usb3.0 and ssd are the future and the motherboard supports both. most importantly, it has 4 ports of sata III. to give you a comparison.. mine only have 2 and i bought my motherboard (same brand, different model) with the same price ($200)!
reason cuz i'm using older version of intel core i7 1st gen. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813131730 200
power supply: antec 750watt is enough. this is bronze certified that's why it's cheaper. but really, you don't need silver or gold certified to run gamer computer. the only reason you want to get gold is if you plan on operating this same power supply for longer time. other than that 5 years of lifetime is good enough. when it runs out of power. you can buy another one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16817371049 100
video card: nvidia is the engine power the video. evga is the brand that manufacture it and they're the best in the business for graphic card. the gtx 460 has plenty of power to play today and tomorrow game at high resolution. 150
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814130597
RAM: this corsair vengeance is 8gb 1600 ddr3. look stylish and it has 1.5v! that is important for overclocking, stability, and heat dissipation. btw, if you're willing to wait, normally these 8gb corsair tend to be on sale for $50 or lower!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820233144
CD-rom: anything is okay here. don't waste $$ getting bluray CD-burner.
http://www.newegg.com/Store/Category.aspx?...D-Burners-Media
hard drive: i don't know if you're understand what i said about ssd vs hd. but ssd is very fast! hmm let assume you want regular hard drive, then get this western digital 500gb black version. black is the fastest for WD, blue is 2nd, green is 3rd. plus it has 6gb of transfer rate to take advantage of the motherboard supporting 6gb. normally they're about $50, not sure why it is so high today.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822136795
OS: window 7 pro. search student price window 7 on google. and register and apply at Microsoft academic program.
OPTIONAL:
audio card: your motherboard comes with HD audio, but if you want better sound for music and gaming audio, you might want to get 3rd party audio card. like the creative x-fi titanium professional. they're normally below $100! so don't get it now. you can buy when the price drop. it can drop to $50!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16829102019
heatsink: if you want to overclock or have a better looking heatsink to keep CPU cool, free of overheating. then might want to get 3rd party heatsink. there two types: air cooler and water cooler. water cooler is more dangerous if the liquid leak into your motherboard but it cools better. though, it is up your choise. i prefer air for safty plus i'm hook on the this xigmatek dark knight. i have this heatsink and it's stylish and excellent at keeping your CPU cool. though any new intel core purchase comes along with default intel heatsink. they're okay, but they are not for overclocking! or keep CPU in good shape.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16835233029
note: you can go to amazon to compare the price since it might be lower at amazon. but newegg is excellent site for computer builder. service is great, and fast delivery. i bought most of computer stuff from here or at amazon.
nice, ok 2 things.
1. if i wanted to do this with cyberpowerpc, how would i start picking the items? there seems to be a bunch of pre made comps there, is there an option to start from scratch?
2. for the harddrive, i am interested in ssd. could you link me to that product? also i dont know how to overclock, but i dont plan on doing it. also wasnt planning to get the optionals for audio card. i will get the XIGMATEK Intel Core i7 compatible Dark Knight-S1283V though.
does this cause any problems, in particular with me wanting that ssd harddrive?
for the case i chose
Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 Black Steel ATX Mid Tower
109
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16811129097
and cd rom i chose
LITE-ON DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X
19
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16827106289
1. if i wanted to do this with cyberpowerpc, how would i start picking the items? there seems to be a bunch of pre made comps there, is there an option to start from scratch?
2. for the harddrive, i am interested in ssd. could you link me to that product? also i dont know how to overclock, but i dont plan on doing it. also wasnt planning to get the optionals for audio card. i will get the XIGMATEK Intel Core i7 compatible Dark Knight-S1283V though.
does this cause any problems, in particular with me wanting that ssd harddrive?
for the case i chose
Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 Black Steel ATX Mid Tower
109
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16811129097
and cd rom i chose
LITE-ON DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X
19
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16827106289
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