WHY CEBU CITY IS A BIG CHINATOWNBy Gavin Sanson Bagares
AS the Chinese Lunar New Year waxes more fully, Cebu City begins to sway to the rhythm of the Lion Dance.
But a visitor will wonder where its Chinatown is. Searching the surface, he will not find one, frustrating even the most perceptive traveler who sees all signs of Chinese presence yet finds no heart of a Chinatown.
Cebu, in truth, has had two Chinatowns. This is history, for the direct trade between southern Chinese ports and the island of Cebu existed since at least a century before the Spanish conquista.
It was the increased opportunities in the island’s trade and commerce that brought Chinese settlers to its shores, especially at the onset of the Galleon Trade in which Cebu was involved from 1594 to 1604. The Galleon Trade fully realized the Chinaman’s role as a middleman, a role whose potential for profit proved irresistible.
The Parian
The early Chinamen were called “sangleyes” by the Spaniards. Composed of 200 traders and artisans, they were herded to their own ghetto as Cebu (“La Ciudad de Santissimo Nombre de Jesus”) took more solid shape as a Spanish city in 1594.
The ghetto was called the “Parian” and built just outside the Spanish ciudad like the one of Manila.
By 1596, the citizens of Parian, led by their principales, were baptized as Catholics, thus creating the Chino cristianos. By virtue of their new faith, they were more free than the “infidel” (unconverted Chinese) and could marry the natives.
The Chino cristianos, their wives (Bisayan or Moluccan, according to one account, for there were no Chinese women in the Philippines then due to China’s restriction to their travel), and mestizo offspring (the word mestizo originally referred only to the Chinese half-caste) were numerous enough that by Oct. 22, 1614, their own parish church, the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, was erected.
Were it not for the notoriety of the Chinese as a perceived threat to national security, among other prejudices toward them, the Parian would have remained Cebu’s Chinese enclave well into the 20th century. But many times, their expulsion from the Philippines was ordered.
Chinese complicity in the British Occupation of Manila (1762-64) made matters worse. The retaking of Manila by the Spaniards led to a long-drawn Chinese diaspora. Its aftermath, culture historian Michael Cullinane observes of late 18th-century Cebu, “resulted in the Parian becoming an almost exclusively Chinese mestizo community, nearly devoid of Chinese.”
The Chinese mestizos soon lost fluency of Chinese, a fact some historians blame on the acculturation by their non-Chinese mothers. At the end of the Spanish rule, they were a “hispanized” group, cultural hybrids that denied and repressed their Chinese legacy.
By legal fiction, Spanish law recognized them as distinct from the Chinese and they were accorded unique rights and privileges within the context of colonial bureaucracy. What “Chinese-ness” they might have lost did not, however, include the flair for commerce.
In the 19th century, they were clearly the most dominant force socially and economically, and their activities spread throughout the province and the region.
The Parian produced Cebu’s first identifiable elite, according to Cullinane. These were the elite whose names still resound today: Osmeña, Velez, Cui and Veloso, among others.
When former Cebu governor Emilio “Lito” Osmeña said that “the whole of Cebu is a Chinatown” and that “there is no family in Cebu who does not have Chinese blood,” he might well mean those of the Old Parian.
The Lutaos
The opening of the Cebu port to international trade in 1860 hastened the economic growth of the city. Foreigners came in increasing numbers, attracted by the prospect of brisk business. Foremost among them were the Chinese, but unlike in the old days, they were no longer confined to the Parian for the mestizos held sway there by that time.
Instead, the Chinese gravitated closer to where the new action was, the Lutaos area close to the port. Soon graced by a customs house, the port was equipped to accommodate big ships, unlike the estuaries that used to be the lifeblood of the Parian. These ancient esteros were giving themselves up to silt and were by now unnavigable.
Location abetted the rise of the new Chinese immigrants. Initially settled at the south side of the Fort San Pedro, they fanned out along the coast of the present-day M.C. Briones Street up to the Carbon public market (Ermita area), inland toward Magallanes, and into feeder roads like Plaridel.
This swathe of Lutaos-Ermita land became the new Chinatown. Unlike the Parian, it was not a planned development hewed to the divide-and-rule dictum of the Spaniards.
The Chinese population in Cebu reached a critical mass (stimulated as it was by friendlier laws and swifter transport modes) beginning in the 1880s that a separate tax ward was created for them, the Gremio de Chinos. The gremio or “tribute-paying corporations … organized by ethnicity rather than by place of residence” might have been greatly instrumental in dispersing the Chinese throughout Cebu City. Wherever business took them, there they would be.
It was in the Lutaos-Ermita Chinatown that Cebu saw the emergence of its most distinguished Chinese family, the Gos. Penniless immigrants late in the 19th century, they have parlayed their initial modest gains into a considerable fortune. Or several fortunes.
The scions of the Go patriarch, Don Pedro Singson Go Tiaoco, are some of today’s taipans in Philippine business—the Gokongweis of the hotel, airline, and publishing concern; the Gotianuys of the school and mall; and the Gaisanos of retailing.
Postscript
Of Cebu as one big Chinatown, one can look at the Lutao-Ermita model for answers. The clue lies in its organic, unplanned development.
Cebu, then as now, was a magnet to the Chinese for the real and time-tested economic opportunities it presents.
In 1900, the American colonists drew plans to improve its port. By 1917, Cebu surpassed its long-time rival Iloilo as premier city of the South.
As the city grew, its Chinese population also burgeoned, spilling-over beyond the port area and encroaching into traditionally non-Chinese neighborhoods. They were to be found in all the major markets from Taboan to T. Padilla, or in tannery operations in the barrio of Mabolo.
Indeed, it was in the 20th century that Cebu itself became a Chinatown whose boundaries of ethnicity were blurred in the pursuit of business opportunities. The Chinese established their own schools, churches, cemeteries, hospitals, charitable foundations, and family associations.
They also formed their own chamber of commerce and a fire brigade to complete the proud display of their identity.
As the 21st century trudges in its infancy, one finds the Cebu Chinatown not in the nooks and crannies of half-forgotten places but in the big picture of a dynamic metropolis.
==========================
LINK