It's all relatively easy , but you'll have to pay in dollars.
http://www.ancientbagan.comEasiest way is to fly Yangon Bagan eg Yangon Airways and stay at one of the nicer hotels ( there are plenty )
eg Thiripyitsayar , Pagan Hotel
If you have the time take the slow boat ( Road to Mandalay ) from Mandalay ( run by same company as Orient Express )
Unfortunately gov has turned whole place into a fooking museum . Was alive 15 - 20 years back with a local community etc.
Going in a hot air balloon I hear is nice but expensive ( tho' I think they're doing less and less as the wind tends to drop you in the Irrawaddy rather than terra firma and gov is getting pissed off at having to rescue tourists from the water )
Also heard they've build some appalling viewing tower in the middle of the plain which is an absolute eye sore.
Shows you what people will do when thay want the Yankee dollar ...